Since there is a wealth of 16mm motion picture films being manufactured, many subminiature photographers are intrigued by the possibility of using motion picture in their submini. There is little to keep you back, just a few, easily-out-maneuvered hurdles.
First, you need to decide on what motion picture film to use. There are dozens -- black and white, color, negative and positive. Make your choice based on the same criteria you use for all your other films. For a complete listing of films, go to the FILM COUNTER of the CAMERA SHOP.
Once you decide on a film, you'll have to decide how much film you need (movie film only comes in long rolls), what types of perforation (if any) your camera uses, how and where to order it (most camera stores won't order it for you), and other "fun" particulars. For more information about this step, go to the FILM COUNTER of the CAMERA SHOP.
The third step is to cut the film to the correct length, slit the film if you are using a format smaller than 16mm, and reload the cassettes that you use. For more details on these steps, take a trip to the DARKROOM section of the SUBCLUB.
Once the film has been exposed and is ready for processing, you face your last set of hurdles. Depending on the film, you may be able to get it processed and prints made or slides mounted at a photo lab. For more information about this, check out the FILM COUNTER section of the CAMERA SHOP. But if you decide to do the processing yourself, there are a few things to keep in mind:
If you are using a 16mm black and white film, it can be processed using any of the standard black and white film developers. Just apply whatever you are currently using.
If you are using a color movie film, the following steps depend on whether the film is a negative or a positive, and whether the film has a special anti-halation backing. Most films, whether designed for still photography, motion pictures or microfilm use have an anti-halation coating of some type. The most common type is automatically removed with standard film processing. However, most color negative motion-picture films have a special anti-halation layer called a Rem-Jet coating, made up of very finely dispersed carbon black. This type of backing is NOT automatically removed in processing. If the film you are using contains a Rem-Jet backing, you must manually remove it at some point during the film processing. Basically, the coating is removed by placing the film in a slightly caustic solution and gently rubbing the back of the film with a soft sponge. You'll want to make sure that all the coating is removed since any particles left on the film will produce white spots on your prints.
There was also a recent article about removing rem-jet backing: Robert Chapman,
Photochemistry:Removing antihalation backings. PHOTO TECHNIQUES, 5-6/1996
PROCESS SUMMARY | TEMPERATURE | TIME | AGITATION |
Pre-wash | 100-105 | 1 min | constant |
Developer | 100-105 | 3.5 min | 30 sec |
Blix | 100-105 | 7 min | 30 sec |
Wash | 65-105 | 2 min | constant |
Backing Remover | 65-105 | .5 min | constant |
Wash | 65-105 | 2 min | constant |
Stabilizer | 65-105 | 1 min | none |
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